A Night in Taos

After our epic ride (see previous post) Jo and I were completely beat. As we drove back into Taos the sun was setting behind a curtain of distant anvil clouds. Rich hues of orange set off red adobe buildings in the valley in a conversation of colors. Dark green sage brush on the ground brilliantly contrasted the orange sky.

Taos Sunset





The sunset was beautiful, but we were in survival mode and needed to meet some basic needs, shelter, food, and rest. We decided to pursue them in that order. It was too late to make to any where worth camping before dark and we didn't want to stay in another motel. We drove through Taos looking at possible options. Cheap hotel, chain hotel, sketchy hotel, none seemed appealing. Then, tucked deep in an ally behind a huge cottonwood tree, I saw a bed and breakfast sign. It was a quaint adobe structure called the La Dona Luz Inn. Jo dialed the owner through a phone on the outside wall. He said that the only room available was the honey moon suite. It was way out of our price range, but it was also 9pm on a Sunday night. I redialed the owner, a super friendly and hospitable man, and we were able to work something out. The two story sweet was amazing. It was furnished from floor to ceiling with local Native American art and culture. The lower level had a full kitchen, living room with 2 story picture window, fire place, and outdoor balcony. The upper level had a king size bed, full bath, another fire place, and balcony looking out of the picture window and the lower level below. At the end of the balcony was a ladder that led to a private roof top deck featuring 360 degree views of the city and a hot tub.

Our Pad for the Night







Our awe of the suite was only trumped by our overwhelming hunger. Finding food at 10pm on a Sunday night in downtown Taos was a hard proposition. After being turned away by 4 places we found a quaint bar with an open kitchen. With a private palace at our disposal we got our food to go. A dip in the hot tub under a star filled sky that was barely polluted by the dim lights of Taos was the perfect end to a great day.

Dim Lights of Taos



The next morning we woke up from a deep sleep in time make breakfast that was served downstairs. It was a full breakfast prepared by our friendly hosts. Afterwards we packed up and enjoyed one last tour of the suite and the view from the roof top deck.

Downstairs

The Stairs

(notice the carving detail)

Upstairs

Heering Bone Ceiling

Bathroom Tile

To Hot Tub

On the Roof

270 Degree View from the Roof

(click on image for a larger size)

Moutain Biking in Taos

After a relaxed morning in Pilar with John Jo and I headed north to the Carson National Forest in south end of the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range. The previous day we met Jake, a local rider in town, who said the best trail around was the South Boundary Trail. He showed us a good loop starting from Garcia Park and invited us to ride with him, but by the time we got rolling we were hours later than he had planned to ride.

Garcia Park is an open alpine meadow 10 miles off the nearest paved road at the intersection of two forest roads and the South Boundary Trail. At about 9500 feet, the pines were deep in lush green undergrowth, but the aspens were still bare of leaves. We parked next to a marshy pond and set up shop.

Garcia Park

When Doug and I converted Jo's Superfly to a single speed the 32 / 19 gearing was the perfect combination to keep the chain tensioned, but we feared that as it stretched it would become too slack. The week before we left this turned into a reality. Jo's chain was jumping more and more with each ride, but I didn't have time to fix it. I packed my tools and the Yess Labs chain tensioner I got for the conversion and hoped I'd be able to fix it on the road. The quiet alpine meadow must have helped my concentration because even though I had no idea what I was doing, I had the chain tensioner installed in under 30 minutes.

Installing the Chain Tensioner

We were clipped in and rolling by 2 O’clock. The route Jake showed us took out of Garcia Park on a forest road that followed a pine covered ridge to the east. We started on forest roads, but I wanted to find a piece of singletrack he recommended lower down on the ridge. After trailblazing a few circles on grassy swathes through the forest I gave up and we went back to the fire road.

Headed Out

A few canyons later the route turned off the road onto a piece of singletrack that climbed along a creek. Where the creek crossed the road there was no sign of any singletrack, just a heavily overgrown fire road. We rode in circles again looking for any sign of a trail, but there was none. It was beginning to get frustrating; we'd already been riding an hour and only covered a few miles. Then as we turned back to explore the other side of the creek I spotted a red colored jersey moving through the trees, it was another rider. I sprinted to catch them while Jo was simultaneously attacked by a butterfly trying to make a home in her helmet. I decided that route finding was the priority and left her to fend off the fluttery beast!

When I rounded the corner I recognized a friendly face. It was Jake and two of his friends. They had got a late start, which was perfect timing for us. Jo rolled up shortly after, having slayed her attacker. We exchanged smiles and laughter then Jake led the way to the singletrack. I might have found it, but I doubt we would have followed it long. Fresh from a winter’s worth of snow, the off camber narrow single track varied from fresh cut to virtually no trail at all. High green grass had over grown the sides of the trail making it almost indistinguishable. The climb was grueling and long as we followed the creek up above 10,000 feet. At times I was stalling out in my granny gear, but that was nothing compared to Jo pushing her 19 tooth cog. She killed it the entire climb!

The Creek Climb

At the top of the climb the trail dumped us out on the flat overgrown remnants of another fire road. It was filled with fallen logs and was riddled with little landmine-like stumps that lurked in the tall grass. Hitting one at speed was a guaranteed trip over the handle bars and bad wheel damage too. We stopped and cleared the logs that were moveable and I built up a rideable log pile on one that wasn’t.

Clearing Logs

Riding Logs

After a few miles the fire road made a sharp left and climbed up to the top of the ridge. At the top we were treated to views of vast horizons on both sides. To the north and west you could see Angle Fire and Eagles Nest, to the south Taos and the distant humps of extinct volcanos. We all stopped for some pictures then followed the crest of the ridge to the South Boundary Trail. After a super rocky technical climb we all stopped for a bite to eat. Jo and I were completely out of water and low on food, but Jake and his friends came to the rescue. After filling up our bottles from their Camelbacs, someone pulled out a foot long sub. I thought I was hallucinating at first, but the taste of fresh bread and ham confirmed it was real. Who were these people? Complete strangers, who showed us the way, hydrated us, fed us, and even took pictures (all the trail ones are from Jake’s)! Taos is good people.

On Top of the Ridge

Jake the Man

Taos Crew

Everyone

The South Boundary Trail was epic, it started as super rocky climb and descent then broke off into alpine singletrack that rivals the best in Colorado. The snow had melted enough for the trail to be rideable, making the dirt tacky, fresh, and fast. A net descent, we started at tree line and followed the snaking singletrack down the mountain through thick pines, open meadows, and leafless aspen groves. It was pure bliss!

Upper South Boundry Trail

In the Aspens

We bottomed out at Quinana Pass then started a gentle climb back up to Garcia Park. We made it back to the truck just as the sun was dipping below trees. Jake and crew pondered continuing down to Taos, but decided there wasn't enough light to make it. Instead we set up some chairs and enjoyed a post ride Izzie.

An Epic Ride

Our total time from start to finish was 4:20, but we only covered 20 miles. The fact that it took so long was a good measure of how epic the trails were and how good the company was. Jake and his friends turned what was destined to be one of Captain Alex’s death rides into an epic experience of what the trails of Taos have to offer. It was definitely a highlight of the trip.

Camping with John

After rafting the Taos Box (previous post) Jo and I camped with John and the Albuquerque crew in Pilar, NM, just down stream of the take out. We had a chill evening hanging with John and enjoying the evening on the shores of the Rio Grande. For the second night in a row I left the camping gear packed as John put us up in his pop up camper. We were both exhausted and I didn't loose any sleep at my lack of hard coreness.

In the morning I was the last one up and awoke to a scene of warm sunshine and friendly offers of breakfast. Taking full advantage of the Selk Bag (here) I walked out of bed savoring all of the heat I had generated through out the night. John made us a delicious breakfast of eggs and bacon.

Chillin in the Selk Bag

John in the Morning

Breakfast

The camp was filled with slower movers from the previous days paddling and a huge breakfast. John's dog Hogan made the rounds cleaning off plates while two chiwawa's from the ABQ crew kept us all entertained.

Hogan

Chiwawa's

ABQ Crew

Jo warmed up for our day with some Yoga while John and I broke down his pop up. John was headed back to ABQ while Jo and I were headed to the mountains outside of Taos for an epic mountain bike ride. After a lazy morning chilling in Pilar we bid John farewell and headed North.

Jo's Warm Up Yoga

Breaking Down the Trailer

A Great Morning