Thursday, December 11, 2008

The White Rim 2008 - Day 2

I woke up Saturday morning after a night of deep sleep. It was one of the best tent sleeping nights I can remember. It also was my first opportunity to try out the new Selk Sleeping Bag Suit I picked up for the trip. When David agreed to come on the trip, I made a commitment to get up in the middle of the night and assist him if he needed use the bathroom. I had been wanting a Selk Bag for some time and being able to get up and help David without ever getting out of my sleeping bag was all the justification I needed. The bag worked great, I was always warm and enjoyed being able to spread out and not be constricted like in a normal sleeping. Some how I never managed to get a picture of the Selk Bag in action, but here is what it looks like.

The Selk Bag



The campsite was alive with activity by the time I shed the Selk Bag for normal clothes Saturday morning. Breakfast was already being cooked and most people were up so there wasn't much to do other than light the propane burner. The morning sun lit up Airport Tower in brilliant shades of brown and orange. The moon was getting low in the sky above it and I made a mental note to snap off a shot when it just above the horizon. Breakfast consisted of oatmeal, bagels, and coffee. The group mood was delirious and happy as we all sat around talking about the day ahead and making fun of Jon's pants.

The View Out of the Tent



Morning at Camp



David, Ben, and Mike







Coffee in a Nalgene
(yummy BPA)



Jon's Pants
(these have been on the Lee-Side before)



Alex Sugaring Coffee



It's a Toilet and Table



The plan was to be on the trail by 10am so it was all business packing up camp and getting ready to ride after breakfast. Josh and I were the bike mechanics for the trip, so we spread word around camp to come to my truck if anyone's bike needed adjustments. The bikes were slightly dusty, but in good shape from the day's ride before. It only took a few adjustments to get everyone dialed. The Yakama Quickstand that plugged into my rack was awesome. The head wasn't as ergonomic as my regular stand, but having it right there on the truck was super convenient. When I was down to just my bike remaining I remembered the moon which was about to set behind Airport Tower. I grabbed my camera and got shot of it just above the horizon to the right of the tower. I also nabbed a good shot of the layered canyons on the other side of the Colorado River. When I got back to camp people were already leaving. I quickly cleaned my bike and loaded up the truck with Jo who was going to drive with David. We were the last ones out of the camp.

The Moon Setting (HDR)



Layered Canyons (HDR)



The Group Almost Ready To Ride



Ben and Nick



Conan



My plan for the day was to be a runner, riding from the back to the front of the group as necessary. The group had a good head start on me so I pedaled hard to catch them, but I quickly went anaerobic because I didn't warm up. My mental image of the White Rim Trail from above is the shape of a giant starfish with many legs. It follows the White Rim in an endless pattern of rocky "points" and "coves" from which canyons begin below. Generally when the trail is heading to a point it climbs slightly and when heading to a cove it descends slightly. In past rides I would always go from feeling like a rockstar on the descents to a gaper on the climbs until I realized the subtle gradient patterns of the trail. Once I was warmed up I put in a sustained effort and eventually caught Ben and Grant. Comfortable about where the group was I turned back and made a few laps between Jo and Chris who were still well behind me. I stopped along the way to take a picture of the Superfly below Monster Tower. A picture here has become a tradition over the years and it reminded me of riding the Superlight on past rides.

Jo and David



The Superfly Below Monster Tower



Chris in his Syncro



As I pushed on Chris eventually caught and passed me in the Sycnro, demonstrating how capable its 4x4 abilities are. Well done Volkswagen! After another sustained effort I caught the group who had all stopped at Buck Canyon to take in the view. The group and Chris moved on, but lacking a radio, I hung back to see if Jo and David were okay. Once I checked in with them I was off again putting down a sustained effort to catch the group. It was like I was riding my own little race against time and the group. This time it took a while, but I eventually caught Ben, Amy, and Chris in the Sycnro. We rode the rest of the way to our lunch spot together.

Jacki and Ben



Josh



The group stopped for lunch of peanut butter and jelly on tortillas and sausage at Monument Basin. Monument Basin is one of the most scenic areas in Canyonlands. It's a deep basin filled with monument like rock structures below a very defined area of White Rim slick rock. The most prominent of these is a tall circular spire named the Totem Pole. Our lunch spot had a perfect view of this framed by White Rim rock on both sides.

Peanut Butter, Jelly, and Sausage on a Tortilla



Lunch



Monument Basin Arch (HDR)



Totem Pole (HDR)



After lunch we wandered down to the edge to take in the view. The rock that framed the left side of the Totem Pole was a huge band of slick rock that led out to giant mushroom shaped island. It was about 300 feet tall and separated by a crack that was about 6 feet wide at the top, but opened up to more than 20 feet wide near the bottom. It was calling me. I made my own trail on the slick rock, carefully avoiding patches of cryptobiotic soil, out to the crack. The wavy surface was good fun and challenged my tech skills. When I got there I studied the crack briefly and impulsively jumped across with no problem. This was a bad decision in two respects. The first was the I was wearing my hard-soled cycling shoes which had the same traction as tap dancing shoes on ice. The second was that I was in view of people on the trip and was setting a bad example. This was especially true with David who later thought it would be funny to give us all heart attacks by walking near the edge with his walker. Back to problem one, after enjoying my own private mesa for a few minutes I found myself stuck. I hadn't studied the crack enough before I jumped to notice that the tops were not even. Now I had to make the 6-foot jump back to the other side which was about 1 foot higher than the side I was on. After a couple of test runs I decided that my cycling shoes didn't give me enough traction to make a running leap. The next best option was to hurl myself across from a stand still and use my momentum to parachute roll up the slope if I landed low. It worked; I landed low, but had enough momentum to make it up the short upslope without rolling. Humbled, I rode back to the group with a commitment to be more responsible than if I were alone.

Slickrock



The Crack



Stuck on the Island



David and Grant Scaring Me



After lunch Jon switched driving duties with Jo so she could ride. We rode together floating through the group until finally settling up front with Nick and Patty. This was the longest day of riding and our group consisted of seasoned cyclists to beginners. As the miles ticked on everybody rode strong and I didn't once hear any complaints, it was great company to enjoy the White Rim with. We rode past Junction Butte, the Twins Basin, and Vertigo Void. After a short switchback climb the trail made a sharp righthand turn into a long descent and Murphy's Hog back came into view.

Nick and Patty



Ben in Front of the Twins



Todd, Dan, Jo and Nick



J & A



The Murphy's Hogback climb looked super intimidating, but it wasn't that hard of a climb. It consists of a series of steep ramps followed by short flat sections. You can't really settle into a consistent rhythm on it, you just have to power through the bumps and recover as much as possible on the flats. Jo, Nick, Patty, and I stopped at the bottom of the final steep ramp as the top of Murphy's Hogback loomed above us. It started with a steep sandy section with a slight lefthand turn. Then the trail pointed skyward in the steepest pitch of the White Rim Trail going straight up the side of the hogback. Nick went first, followed by me, then Jo and Patti. We all made it without stopping, which was a first for me in all of my previous years rides. Our campground was at the top so with no further to ride we stopped to enjoy the view of the Orange Cliffs and Junction Butte in the fading sunlight. We could see the rest of the group spread out along the trail below and when the first people approached the bottom decided to descend back down see everyone got up okay.

Nick and Jo Climbing Murphy's Hogback





We watched the riders ascend the climb one by one and soon a crowd formed at the top to cheer the next person up. As more people finished the crowd grew larger and the cheers got louder, it was a great example of the quality and character of the people who came on the trip. When everyone was up the four of us rode back up and were greeted with cheers and applause at the top. The support vehicles came last and got the loudest cheers of all. Jon and Jacki pranked me good by putting dirt on my hand glider bag and saying they accidentally rammed it against the rocky wall. Once we were all on top we paused to admire the view and for a couple of group shots.

Mike, Chris, Alex, and Ben Climbing Murphy's Hogback









Amy and Josh



Group Photo Timer Attempt 1



Group Photo Timer Attempt 2



The campground on top of Murphy’s Hogback sported the best views and coldest temps of the trip. As we set up camp on our island in the sky, we were treated to another stunning sunset as the sun dipped behind the Orange Cliffs to the west. Pasta was for dinner and desert was more of Cristi’s delicious oatmeal cookies that we had been eating since day one. She made enough to fill an entire gear bin and even with our collective nibbling, there were still a few extras left over by the end of the trip. Smiles and stories of the day’s ride surrounded our propane fire followed by cards and a game that involved rolling tiny pigs in the Syncro - don't ask.

Murphy's Camp



Junction Butte



Grant Got the Best Spot



The Orange Cliffs below an Orange Sky



Enjoying the View



The stars were bright against a backdrop unpolluted by any man made light. I set my camera up on the North Star for a 45 minute exposure before the moon rose, but the battery died after about 20 minutes. I got some descent trails, but the camera shut off before I could get full circles. It was so cold that night that I doubled up and put my normal sleeping bag on top of the Selk Bag and never overheated.

Star Trails

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

The White Rim 2008 - Day 1

I woke up next to Jo at 3:30am on Friday morning after logging a solid 3 hours of sleep. Jon and David had spent the night so we could caravan first thing in the morning. We were all "slow movers" at that early hour, but managed get on the road by 4:30. The four of us met up with Ben, Mike, Nick, and Patty at I-70 and we started the trek to Moab. I had outfitted my rack to carry 5 bikes, 1 hang glider, gear bins, and David's walker externally (here), but there was snow in the mountains so I stuffed everything inside and kept my glider safe in it's PVC pipe hanger for the drive. Winter had arrived in the Rockies and we hit heavy snow over both Loveland and Vail passes.

A Dry Glider



The Phoenix Multisport Mobile



Mike, Nick, Patty, Jo, and Ben



Blizzard Conditions on Vail Pass



As we descended the West side of the Rockies the snow gave way to sun and warmer temps. Our collective lack of sleep made the drive long, but we entertained each other with puzzlers from the NPR show Car Talk. We made it to the meeting spot, an elevated covered wagon in a gas station parking lot at the intersection of Utah Rt. 191 and 313, with time to spare and waited as people slowly trickled in. When Chris rolled up in his fully restored and upgraded VW Syncro, I was awestruck. I foresee a VW camper in our future...

Clear Skies in Wide Open Utah



Sleeping Nick



Awake Nick


The Covered Wagon, Our Meeting Spot


Patty and Jo


The Group Assembled



Chris's Syncro - Ahhh



With our group assembled we caravaned to the staging area at Rt. 313 and Mineral Bottom Road. There we unloaded and consolidated our gear. The trip would consist of Dan, Ben, Eric, Todd, Grant, Conan, Amy, David, Nichole, Josh, Nick, Patty, Mike, Ben, Jacki, Chris, Jon, Jo and I. We decided on three support vehicles, which would be the Phoenix Mobile, Chris's Syncro, and my truck. Smiles and excitement were abound as everyone got acquainted with each other and got ready to ride. I time budgeted an hour for this, which was way to short including the shuttle to the trail head. Next year I'll plan on at least 2 hours.

The Caravan



Nichole and Josh




Unsheathing My Sword



Consolidating Gear



Loading Up



The Rack at Full Capacity



After the short shuttle to the trail head the group mood took on a focused tone as people finished last minute ride preparations. Quiet conversation, zippers being zipped, buckles being latched, and the "psshh" of tire pumps were the only sounds breaking the desert silence. When everyone was ready we had a brief trip meeting. After formal introductions I briefed everyone on what to expect on the day's ride while Ben, Jo, Mike, and Jacki covered some Phoenix guidelines. Jon, Jacki and David and I would drive support for the day. It was late in the day and there was a chill in the air. The group excitement was paralleled with slight apprehension of the unknown that lay ahead. I remember that feeling well before starting past trips.

Last Minute Preparations



Trip Meeting




Apprehension
(or annoyed at my constant picture taking)




Only 2 hours behind schedule we were off as people clipped in and trickled off down the road to Shafer Canyon. Jon drove ahead to our first campsite in the Phoenix Mobile, Jacki followed the first group in the Syncro, and David and I ran sweep in my truck. With no time to warm up, the descent down Shafer Canyon is always cold so I lent out a few jackets to people who needed them for the descent. The exposed road is not for those who dislike heights as it is literally carved into 1000 foot tall canyon walls, but the view is spectacular. Running sweep, David and I were in perfect position to photograph the group as it descended the canyon. We took our time on the stopping to take pictures and to track a small herd of juvenile big horn sheep foraging on the cliff side.

The Trail Head



Mike



Josh



Off They Go



Shafer Canyon



The White Rim Comes into View



Ben


David


Mike and Nichole


Josh
(he only rides on one wheel)



Support Crew



Ben and Nichole



Jo



The Sycnro in its Element



Big Horned Sheep



Nick and Patty at the Bottom



Group Pedalling off into the White Rim



At the bottom I was able to catch the tail end of the group just as the trail started paralleling the White Rim. The first day's trail was rougher than I thought it would be in a truck. What I was able to fly over on my bike in the past required moderate 4x4 skills to negotiate with any speed. I thought it would be boring driving at biking speed, but it turned out that bikes were much faster than my over-loaded truck and I had to work to stay with them. I reminded myself that the hang glider was hanging off the side and tried to keep my speed in check to minimize hard bumps.

The Mighty Tacoma



Running Sweep



As the trail turned West along the White Rim, the landscape opened up and treated us to more stunning views of the desert landscape. Having photographed most of the trail before, I decided to capture it in HDR this time. High Dynamic Range combines 3 shots into a single image, it allows you to capture shadows and highlights that you couldn't in a single image at the expense of over saturation and lots of pixel noise. It was a great tool to capture the desert because of the contrasting shadows and sunlight.

Bird View Butte (HDR)



Meander Tower (HDR)


Not doing the trail in a single day allowed us the opportunity to explore this year. David and I turned off at the first spur trail we found which took us to Goose Neck Overlook. Below the overlook the Colorado River makes huge bend in the shape of a Goose Neck with the snow capped La Sal Mountains in the background.

Goose Neck (HDR)


David and Alex


After the overlook we sped to catch up with the stragglers, but the trail was too rough to make good speed. Running sweep, it wasn't a big deal because if someone mechanicaled it wouldn't take long for us to get to them. We drove the rest of the trail to Airport Campground alone. As we rounded the top of Lathrop Canyon the sun set behind Airport Tower. A wispy layer of high cirrus clouds and the contrails of a passing airliner lit up like a fire in the sky reflecting pastel red and pink hues across the rocks below in a symphony of color. It was the kind of sunset you can only find in the desert. I pulled the truck over and David and I enjoyed the silent symphony surrounding us. It was a vivid experience.

Sunset Behind Airport Tower


Same Sunset in HDR
(it's a re-post, but this is my favorite picture from the trip)


Lathrop Canyon in Pink (HDR)


Almost Gone


We rolled into the Airport Campground just as the faint remnants of the sunset gave way to darkness. I sprang into work, joining Jo, Ben, Mike and Jacki who were setting up the communal area. The campsite was a bustling with activity as riders, volunteers, and staff were setting up tents, cooking food, and changing into warm clothes. The intensity of the desert can be felt in its extreme temperature swings and with the sun down it didn't take long to get cold. Fires are prohibited in Canyonlands National Park so I brought a propane burner to keep us warm. It wasn't as warm as a fire, but better than nothing. Later in the trip when I was mentally complaining to myself about how it wasn't warm enough I laughed out loud at the thought of us shivering around the alternative - a lowly propane lantern. Tired from the 3:30am wake up we all had an early night under moonlit night skies.

Airport Tower Campground


Desert Moon