Thursday, September 27, 2012

Wyoming - Cirque of the Towers

The last part of our Wyoming trip would be spent in the Wind River Range.  I've been flying over the "Winds" for the better part of ten years and have yet to loose interest staring down at the most desolate mountain range in the Continental US.  We would be hiking in at the Big Sandy Trailhead for a 48 hour backpack encompassing two nights after our 5:00pm departure.  Big Sandy is the main access point for the Southern Wind River Range resulting in the many cars at the lot and crowds on the main trail that belay the remoteness of the mountain range.  A few miles in the crowds thin out significantly, although I did see a few disturbing instances of poor back country etiquette, namely poop on the trail.

The Cirque of the Towers from 30,000 Feet


Driving into No-Mans-Land


Foothills


Sprinting Pronghorn


We were meeting Jonny V and Sean C at Big Sandy Lake.  They had already established a camp off the main trail before it climbed over Jackass Pass.  We were backpacking off the couch with 40lb and 50lb packs.  It was a slow 6 miles up, but we ran into Jonny V on the way.  We made it to camp just before dark.  Jonny V and Sean had spent the previous week climbing some of the classic routes in the Cirque of the Towers, but planned a rest day hike with us on the following day.  We caught up, shared some laughs, bear-proofed our food, and crashed out.

Our Gear



Setting Off


Easy Hike



Sunset Over Big Sandy Creek


Entering the Bridger Wilderness - No Hang Gliding!


Meeting Up with Jonny V.


All Smiles


Dinner


The next day we got up early and planned a hike up Jackass Pass to the Cirque of the Towers.  To keep the weight down Jo and I were hiking with only one Nalgene each, meaning lots of stops to "make water".  Sunrise water runs to the shore of Big Sandy Lake rewarded me with some of the most captivating scenes of the trip.  The hike up to The Cirque was a steep climb, but we had only a small pack between us so we made good time.  The route took us by several pristine alpine lakes, who's crystal clear water begged me to jump in for a swim.  Hypothermia was my only deterrent.

Morning






Making Water


Breakfast


Headed up the Jackass Pass


Looking Down at Big Sandy Lake


North Creek


Brown Trout You Could Touch



War Bonnet Peak Over North Lake


Our Crew


At Arrowhead Lake we broke off the main trail and climbed a boulder field under War Bonnet Peak.  The VW Beatle-sized boulders had equally massive holes between them that would result in certain injury if fallen into.  The climb up the boulder field ended in a narrow pass that acted as our gateway to one of the most beautiful places I have ever experienced. The Cirque of the Towers is a deeply carved bowl-shaped valley surrounded on three sides by precipitously steep vertical walls.  The peaks that make up the cirque are Shark's Nose, Lizard Head, Warbonnet, Warrior, Wolf's Head, and Pingora Peaks.  Almost all of them have classic climbing routes that attract climbers from all over the world.  At bottom of the cirque is Lonesome Lake which is fed by a clearwater stream meandering down the cascading natural staircase that is formed by the base of the peaks.

Arrowhead Lake & The Boulder Field


Snow


Entering the Cirque of the Towers


Pingora Peak


The Falls


360 Degree Pans



Our Crew


Lonesome Lake


Near the water falls at the center of The Cirque we took in the grandeur of our surroundings and enjoyed a lunch of trial mix and twizzlers.  After lunch, I volunteered to rescue a plastic knife Jonny and Sean had accidentally dropped into the creek by submerging the top half of my body in the freezing water.  I'll save you the dramatic descriptions and just say it was Fucking Cold!  After operation knife rescue was complete we hiked down to the lake in search of moose.  On the way marmots and pika scurried through rocky areas, but the pika were too elusive for me to photograph.  Pika are one of North America's most climate change-affected animals, ironically, freezing to death in thinner and thinner snow packs.  I really wanted to snap a good shot, but just couldn't land one.

Marmot


Mitchell Peak


Lunch


War Bonnet Peak from the Cirque


Hiking Back Down the Boulder Field


Blue / Green Water of North Lake



Racing the Sun


On the hike back down to our camp we raced the sun, making it just before dark.  At dinner Sean shared his Velveeta Mac & Cheese, which combined with my huge appetite and a dusting of bacon bits, was the best Mac & Cheese I've ever had.  I would need it for the hike out in the morning.

Mac & Cheese with Bacon Bits for Dinner



At sunrise Jo and I hiked over to Black Joe Creek to make water.  It would be the last morning of our trip so I made sure to soak in it.  As the sun rose steadily between the peaks, its orange rays painted the valley in morning light. The warm rays cut through the chilled air over the glassy-still water of Big Sandy Lake.  The effect made all the little details of the moment come alive; the moss on the rocks, the flowers in the fields, even a simple brown moth reflected a medley of colors.

Morning


Sunrise Rays


Glassy-Still Water of Big Sandy Lake


Morning Colors







Another Water Run





The hike out was mildly painful, but nothing like what Jonny and Sean experienced with their 70lb packs.  And they had to make two trips to hump all the climbing gear out!  At the trailhead I found a swimming hole in Big Sandy Creek and forced myself into the freezing water.  It was paralyzing at first, but after a few moments of intense pain my body surrendered to the cold.  The relaxing effect was intoxicating, but soon my thoughts and pulse slowed to a sluggish pace meaning it was time to get out.  For over an hour the muscle tissue deep below my skin was cold to the touch.  It was a perfect way to end a great trip.

Hiking out




Ouch



Tired Dogs


The Coldest Swimming Hole Ever




Trout's Eye View



Long Drive Home